MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear Part II

The collections shown during Paris Fashion Week bustled with nostalgia. Granted, fashion always looks to the past for inspiration; however most of these instances are soon forgotten, replaced by the buzzing current of media driven trends. Fortunately, the Paris Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear collections didn’t take that route. Instead, a return to grace seemed to be the ubiquitous theme on designers’ minds as as the shows were teeming with Medieval, Victorian, and 1960s elegance.

The following include more of my favorite looks and trends from the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear shows during Paris Fashion Week:

THE OVERCOAT. Ponchos, ulsters, capes, you name it; outerwear was officially the focal point of the Autumn/Winter Paris Ready-to-Wear collections.


Caped Crusaders at Hussein Chalayan and Yves Saint Laurent A/W 2010-2011 RTW

BUTTERY LEATHER. These haute hides are the new ultimate luxury.


Black Leather Like Butter at Celine and Hermès A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Scoring Brownie Points at Valentino and Costume National A/W 2010-2011 RTW

OVERSIZED. Bigger is better in the world of caricatured fashion.


Supersized at John Galliano and Kenzo A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Ginormus Jackets at Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Are You Yeti? Big Fur at Chanel A/W 2010-2011 RTW

SATIN. No longer confined to evenings, satin makes its way to day


Simply Satin at Nina Ricci and Emanuel Ungaro A/W 2010-2011 RTW

TRAINS. Regal, ceremonial, and perfectly pretentious: Why not always travel by train? 


Satin Trained at Maison Martin Margiela and Stella McCartney A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Classically Trained at Alexander McQueen A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Well Trained at Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2010-2011 RTW

FAVORITES

Great holy farthingale! Nothing beats this plethora of pleats.


The Future Looks to the Past at Viktor & Rolf A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Alexander McQueen’s last collection was absolutely stunning. Like a High Renaissance painting, the ensembles had a steadfast beauty ethereal in all its rich glory.


The Past is Not Forgotten at Alexander McQueen A/W 2010-2011 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear Part I

Paris Fashion Week came and went quicker than one can say adieu. The collections shared a certain sense of ease and humor; a welcomed departure from the sexually charged seriousness of Milan Fashion Week. Modern fabrications gave life to Medieval, Victorian, and 1990s silhouettes and color ways, and all of it was noted in the details—exactly what the French are so brilliant at doing. I like to think of it as: French wit.

The following are some of my favorite looks and trends from the Paris  Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear collections.

HOODS. The artistic hood is so damn good.


Not Your Average Hoods at Rick Owens and Gaultier Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

EMBELLISHED SEAMS. Metallic seams are the simplest bling.


Shiny Seams at Elie Saab and Karl Lagerfeld Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

CROPPED. Sweaters and jackets soar to new heights as they shrink in size.


Cream of the Crop at Vivienne Westwood and Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

1990s STYLE STRIPED KNITS. Seriously, striped sweaters are the grungiest fun.


There’s Waldo at Sonia Rykiel and Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW


Bright Stripes at Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Part II

A relaxed, expressive elegance seemed to be the prevalent theme for the 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Couture collections. The plethora of hard embellishments, frills, and dayglo brights of past seasons were nowhere in sight, and as a whole, the collections seemed to take on a softer, dreamier feel with many allusions the late 1960s. The following is Part II of my MAOs of the collections, and includes more of my favorite looks from the shows.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection featured an abundance of 1960s shapes in soft candy pastels that translated into: lady like shorts suits, whimsical cocktail dresses, and sweeping satin gowns, all finding themselves adorned with metallic sequins embroidery.


Prim and Proper Pastel Buttons at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Late 60s Shapes Dominate at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Tiered Glamour at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Always a Black Tie Event at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Givenchy showed variations on tuxedo dressing and something fabulous I would have to call disco tribal gothic that included un-frou-frou feather accoutrements, vampy chiffons, and sophisticated sequins.


Tuxedo Luxe at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture


Sheer Vamp at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture


Disco Tribal Revival at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection donned many hats figuratively, and quite literally. His corseted bodices were worked into a variety of inspired looks, ranging from Spanish Flamenco to ancient Greece, ending at Tahiti.


Decked Out Denim at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Bigger, Bolder, Shoulders at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Decorated Décolleté at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Crinolines Go Green at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The showing of Dior’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection was a colorful event filled with high drama gowns and ensembles taken right out of history. Pop culture darlings such as Anne Margaret and Dita Von Teese were referenced in the collection, alongside the iconic designers Charles James and Jacques Griffe, whose two-tone color blocked inspired gowns were offset sublimely by white opera gloves.


Channeling Ann Margaret circa 1967 and Dita Von Teese at Christian Dior S/S 2010 Couture


Taffeta Charm at Christian Dior S/S 2010 Couture


Debutante Proper at Dior S/S 2010 Couture

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The dreamy pale hues and graceful, fluid textures in Elie Saab’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection elicited the kind of awesome calm found only in the purity of water. Everything about the collection was exquisite—down to the beading, the embroidery, the lace work; all the things that couture dreams are made of.


Mermaid Fancy at Elie Saab S/S 2010 Couture


Visions in Taupe at Elie Saab S/S 2010 Couture

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Part I

A relaxed, expressive elegance seemed to be the prevalent theme for the 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Couture collections. The plethora of hard embellishments, frills, and dayglo brights of past seasons were nowhere in sight, and as a whole, the collections seemed to take on a softer, dreamier feel with many allusions the late 1960s. The following includes some of my favorite looks from the shows and my MAOs of the collections.

Josephus Thimister Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The militant severity of World War I Russia echoed loudly throughout Thimister’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection, which embodied a type of violence similar to that of a Delacroix painting, as bloodied tops and trousers completed the effect.


Russian Military Rules at Josephus Thimister S/S 2010 Couture


Red Runs Redrums at Josephus Thimister S/S 2010 Couture

Alexis Mabille Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Mabille definitely had Cruella de Vil and 90s body-con in mind when designing her latest couture collection for Spring 2010, as it included and abundance of two-tone color blocking and tonal, texturally contrasting trims.


Split Personalities at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture


The LBD Gets Body-Conned at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture


Films Noirs at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture

Anne Valérie Hash Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Fun and easy Vaudeville silhouettes comprised of rave worthy fabrics made up Anne Valérie Hash’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Collection.


Putting on a Show at Anne Valérie Hash S/S 2010 Couture


Raving On at Anne Valérie Hash S/S 2010 Couture

Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The lunar inspiration was interpreted quite literally at Armani Privé as moon details were represented EVERYWHERE—in and on garments as closures, buttons, necklaces, shapes and textures.


Moon Suits at Armani Privé S/S 2010 Couture


Waxing and Waning at Armani Privé S/S 2010 Couture

Valentino Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Fantasy at ease is the kind of glamorous aesthetic in Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection.

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It’s a Soft Wrap at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture


Statement Jackets at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture


Sheer Love for Nature at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Since it’s brazenly laden with throwbacks to the late 1960s, Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection might as well have been called, Party Clothes for Modern Factory Girls.


60s Cutouts and Baubles at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture


Wearable Art at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture


I Know Why the Caged Parts Sing at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Pre-trending: Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Ready-to-Wear

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Although some of my favorite looks below were eclipsed by more prominent trends during Paris Fashion Week, I predict the following will have an impact on Ready-to-Wear over the next couple seasons:

THE DUSTER. Nothing says modern glamour more than a high drama jacket that does double duty as a practical layering piece. Dusters ARE swagger period.

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Dustered at Yohji Yamamoto, Hermes, and Yves Saint Laurent S/S 2010 RTW

ORIGAMI SHAPES. Pointed origami and V-shapes are refreshingly SHARP.

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Getting the Point at Rick Owens, Maison Martin Margiela, and Miu Miu S/S 2010 RTW

DOLL PARTS. Doll-like influences are eerily cool and are ALWAYS welcome in my book.

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All Dolled-Up at Givenchy and Wunderkind S/S 2010 RTW

OUT OF AFRICA. African inspired silhouettes and prints are going to be a BIG deal come next spring.

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African Rules at Kenzo S/S 2010 RTW

CAMOUFLAGE COMEBACK. It comes and it goes and yes, although camouflage has left the building, it is coming back soon, VERY soon.

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Colorful Camo at Louis Vuitton S/S 2010 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Ready-to-Wear

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Fashion Week always reminds us that the driving force, the genius and creative will and vision of designers, is still alive and with us. Despite the fact that the Spring/Summer 2010 Ready-to-Wear collections continued to be safely executed, glimpses of bling were spotted, an indication that designers are hopeful the bleak economic climate will soon change for the better, lessening the preoccupation with “sellable” looks.

Many variations of the following trends were seen at the Spring/Summer 2010 Ready-to-Wear shows during Paris Fashion Week:

DOUBLE-BREASTED. From classic style trench coats to business inspired blazers, to more avant-garde interpretations: everyone’s doing it.

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Double Breasted at Dior, Lanvin, and Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2010 RTW

GRECIAN. Draping, Fortuny pleating, and toga-like silhouettes dominated the Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear collections.

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Grecian Maidens In Jumpsuits at Lanvin S/S 2010 RTW

BLACK AND WHITE. Always simple, clean, and elegant, black and white combinations are the “it” neutrals for Spring 2010.

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Black and White and Ladylike at Chanel S/S 2010 RTW

LINGERIE. Undergarments worked into ensembles was a recurring theme at the Paris Ready-to-Wear shows. Bralettes and bandeaus were visible under jackets and sheer chiffon; slips became dresses, and tap pants, shorts.

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Lingerie is Out and About at Dior S/S 2010 RTW

RUFFLES. Cascading, asymmetrical ruffles brought much needed cheer to the shows.

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Flounced and Ruffled at Stella McCartney S/S 2010 RTW

BOLD SHOULDERS. Accentuated shoulders were seen everywhere.

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Bold Shoulders and Belted Waists at Sonia Rykiel S/S 2010 RTW

HIP SWAY. And the hips were another body part receiving attention.

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Hip Smocking at Kris Van Assche S/S 2010 RTW

UTILITARIAN. Streamlined hoods, pockets, and belts; a throwback to the shapes from the beginning of the decade, and a modern take on Rosie the Riveter.

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Utilitarian Intensity at Balenciaga S/S 2010 RTW

MILITARY. Epaulette and soutache embellishments ran high as the military trend from prior seasons continues to influence the Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear collections.

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Military Glam at Balmain S/S 2010 RTW

PRINTS, PRINTS, PRINTS. Tribal, animal, futuristic, psychedelic, mixed; prints added a delightful touch to the spring collections.

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Tribal Funk Schoolgirls at Louis Vuitton S/S 2010 RTW

COCKTAIL. The statement cocktail dress makes a comeback, taking its inspiration straight from the 1960s, and includes shift dresses, and styles adorned with sequins, feathers, and jewels.

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Azzaro’s S/S 2010 RTW Maribou Evening Jacket is a Show Stopper

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