MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear Part II

The collections shown during Paris Fashion Week bustled with nostalgia. Granted, fashion always looks to the past for inspiration; however most of these instances are soon forgotten, replaced by the buzzing current of media driven trends. Fortunately, the Paris Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear collections didn’t take that route. Instead, a return to grace seemed to be the ubiquitous theme on designers’ minds as as the shows were teeming with Medieval, Victorian, and 1960s elegance.

The following include more of my favorite looks and trends from the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear shows during Paris Fashion Week:

THE OVERCOAT. Ponchos, ulsters, capes, you name it; outerwear was officially the focal point of the Autumn/Winter Paris Ready-to-Wear collections.


Caped Crusaders at Hussein Chalayan and Yves Saint Laurent A/W 2010-2011 RTW

BUTTERY LEATHER. These haute hides are the new ultimate luxury.


Black Leather Like Butter at Celine and Hermès A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Scoring Brownie Points at Valentino and Costume National A/W 2010-2011 RTW

OVERSIZED. Bigger is better in the world of caricatured fashion.


Supersized at John Galliano and Kenzo A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Ginormus Jackets at Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Are You Yeti? Big Fur at Chanel A/W 2010-2011 RTW

SATIN. No longer confined to evenings, satin makes its way to day


Simply Satin at Nina Ricci and Emanuel Ungaro A/W 2010-2011 RTW

TRAINS. Regal, ceremonial, and perfectly pretentious: Why not always travel by train? 


Satin Trained at Maison Martin Margiela and Stella McCartney A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Classically Trained at Alexander McQueen A/W 2010-2011 RTW


Well Trained at Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2010-2011 RTW

FAVORITES

Great holy farthingale! Nothing beats this plethora of pleats.


The Future Looks to the Past at Viktor & Rolf A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Alexander McQueen’s last collection was absolutely stunning. Like a High Renaissance painting, the ensembles had a steadfast beauty ethereal in all its rich glory.


The Past is Not Forgotten at Alexander McQueen A/W 2010-2011 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear Part I

Paris Fashion Week came and went quicker than one can say adieu. The collections shared a certain sense of ease and humor; a welcomed departure from the sexually charged seriousness of Milan Fashion Week. Modern fabrications gave life to Medieval, Victorian, and 1990s silhouettes and color ways, and all of it was noted in the details—exactly what the French are so brilliant at doing. I like to think of it as: French wit.

The following are some of my favorite looks and trends from the Paris  Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear collections.

HOODS. The artistic hood is so damn good.


Not Your Average Hoods at Rick Owens and Gaultier Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

EMBELLISHED SEAMS. Metallic seams are the simplest bling.


Shiny Seams at Elie Saab and Karl Lagerfeld Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

CROPPED. Sweaters and jackets soar to new heights as they shrink in size.


Cream of the Crop at Vivienne Westwood and Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

1990s STYLE STRIPED KNITS. Seriously, striped sweaters are the grungiest fun.


There’s Waldo at Sonia Rykiel and Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW


Bright Stripes at Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear

Italians do it better, so they say. Better may not be quite the right descriptive when it comes to fashion; however sexier and definitely more fun come to mind when comparing their American and English counterparts.

As for the Milan Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 collections, color schemes consisting of vibrant reds and deep forest greens seemed to jump right out of Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s Amélie. Nuances such as a sweater clad midriff or a carefully slashed breast revealed tiny flashes of skin, while Scandinavian motifs and patchwork worked their way in. Embellished hips, fringe, corsetry, and sans pantsenduring trends from past seasons—were well represented within reason. Now I must end this rhyme with a stitch in time.

The following include some of my favorite looks and trends from the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear shows during Milan Fashion Week:

RED. Standing for sex, power, love, and order: red commands attention wherever it goes.


Taken Aback in Red and Black at Dsquared² and Dolce & Gabbana Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW


Redcoats at Armani and Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

DARK GREEN. Luscious dark green is edgy AND pristine.


Exquisitely Green
, Coats for Evening at at Alberta Ferretti and Armani Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW


Mixed Greens at Etro and Missoni Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

SCANDINAVIAN MOTIFS. Snowflakes, blossoms, and reindeer comprise; a confectionary aesthetic; the Scandinavian guise. 


Scandinavian Warming Trends
at D&G and Missoni Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

PEEK-A-BOO. Just a smidgen of skin will do.


Sneak Peeks at Gucci and Prada Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

PATCHWORK. Part folk, part arts and crafts; patchwork detailing tells the future, present and past.


Piecing it Together at Versace and Just Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

EMBELLISHED HIPS. Hips don’t lie, they multiply; by way of external pockets and statement peplums.


Hip-notized
at Bottega Veneta and Marni Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

FRINGE. It’s acceptable to binge, on the lighter sides of fringe. 


Ultra-Femme Fringe at Versace and Iceberg Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

CORSETRY. Boned, laced, and bustiered, the corset is fiercely displayed.


Staying Put at Moschino and Just Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

SANS PANTS. Since Lady Gaga started running around in bodysuits, it seems nobody wants to wear pants anymore. Just dance sans pants.


Pitchy Knickers at Dsquared² and Iceberg Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW


Dolce and Gabbana’s Pantsless Procession – Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. New York Fashion Week Fall 2010 Part II

Although New York Fashion Week’s Fall Ready-to-Wear 2010 collections tended to be somewhat calculated, there were aspects I found to be rather exceptional.  The following include more trends from the New York Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear shows and my favorite lookson the darker side naturally, taking cues from medieval times.

SHEER ALL THE WAY. Like it or not, sheer all the way is here to stay; at least for a season or two.


Enmeshed at Catherine Malandrino and Cushnie et Ochs Fall 2010 RTW


On Detail at Yigal Azrouël and Jen Kao Fall 2010 RTW

EXAGGERATED CURVES. Like a coat of armor, contrasting fabrics and boning create dramatic structure.


Burgeoning Hips at Alexandre Herchcovitch and Donna Karan Fall 2010 RTW

FRINGE. Fringe gets refreshed in edgy colors and shapes.


Fresh Fringe at Paris 68 and Cynthia Rowley Fall 2010 RTW

PEEK-A-BOO. Glimpses of skin is a playful DO.


Peeking Through at Jeremy Scott and Proenza Schouler Fall 2010 RTW

VELVET. Rich, supple and romantic; velvet is a lost love returned for fall.


Snow White and Rose Red at Anna Sui and Alexander Wang Fall 2010 RTW


Velvet Touches at Nanette Lepore and Zac Posen Fall 2010 RTW

1930s STYLE EVENING GOWNS. Long, fluid lines in draping fabrics denote classic evening glamour.


Liquid Gold at Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra Fall 2010 RTW

And by far the most interesting piece of all the NYFW fall 2010 collections.


Hair Dressing at threeASFOUR Fall 2010 RTW

So cool was Betsey Johnson’s Tribute to Alexander McQueen.


Betsey Johnson Fall 2010 RTW

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WIDE HIPS/ENLARGED/ACCENTUATED HIPS BONING

Alexandre Herchcovitch and Donna Karan Fall 2010 RTW

MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. New York Fashion Week Fall 2010 Part I

Although I love New York Fashion Week, I don’t love New York weather in the dead of winter, which is why this season I’m very happy to be a remote observer. The greatness of the New York ready-to-wear shows is that these designers more or less create a guide for consumers in terms of accessible, everyday fashion that is purchasable in stores and online. It’s what the H&Ms, the Forever 21s, and the Urban Outfitters will be using for inspiration over the next few months. And it all starts in New York.

Speaking of which, it’s the last fashion week in Bryant Park, since IMG decided to move the event to Lincoln Center starting next season, a change I’m not super fond of at the moment. Bryant Park is such a charming and romantic locale with its vintage cafe tables and stone walkways and is in such close proximity to the New York Public Library, one of my favorite places in the city, which is where I go to retreat from all the fashion week madness. It will be interesting to see how it all pans outs logistically and socially next season.

I digress.

As for the shows, they generally still had a very serious feel to them. Edgy, unfrivolous investment silhouettes seemed to be key selling points along with safe use of color; black is the new gray, gray is the new khaki, and varying shades of tan and is the new monochromatic way. Patterns were integrated somewhat desperately into the collections, and likewise, the urge to color block everything apparently was a difficult temptation for designers to resist. On top of it all were layers of vintage inspired furs to spell out F-A-L-L in case anyone had forgotten due to all the shorts sightings. In all, the collections were beautiful—but extremely safe executions of classic fall/winter dressing.

Many variations of the following trends were seen at the Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear shows during New York Fashion Week:

COLOR BLOCKING. There’s absolutely no stopping color blocking this Fall/Winter.


Easy Color Blocking at Narcisco Rodriguez and BCBG Fall 2010 RTW


Sporty Color Blocking at Cynthia Rowley and Y-3 Fall 2010 RTW


Ladylike Color Blocking at Chado Ralph Rucci and Zac Posen Fall 2010 RTW

JUMPERS. It’s official. The jumpsuits of seasons past have metamorphosed into—the jumper.


Jumpers Neck to Neck at Vena Cava and Erin Wasson x RVCA Fall 2010 RTW


Suspended at 3.1 Philip Lim and Betsey Johnson Fall 2010 RTW

SHORTS. Shorts are sophisticated and seasonless when paired with smart legwear and footwear.


Shorts Stories at Nicole Miller and Jill Stuart Fall 2010 RTW

GRAY SPORTSWEAR. Sportswear goes gray all the way come fall.


Gray Days at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 RTW

TAN. Monochromatic shades of tan are the new autumnal hues for 2010.


Monochromatic Tans at Mulberry and  Zac Posen Fall 2010 RTW

LAYERED PRINTS. Nouveau grunge consists of a mishmash of layered prints.


Mixed and Layered Prints at Anna Sui and Boy by Band of Outsiders Fall 2010 RTW

FUR COLLARS. Extra large fur collars are fit for snow queens, not snow bunnies.


Fur Trimmings at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler Fall 2010 RTW

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Part II

A relaxed, expressive elegance seemed to be the prevalent theme for the 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Couture collections. The plethora of hard embellishments, frills, and dayglo brights of past seasons were nowhere in sight, and as a whole, the collections seemed to take on a softer, dreamier feel with many allusions the late 1960s. The following is Part II of my MAOs of the collections, and includes more of my favorite looks from the shows.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection featured an abundance of 1960s shapes in soft candy pastels that translated into: lady like shorts suits, whimsical cocktail dresses, and sweeping satin gowns, all finding themselves adorned with metallic sequins embroidery.


Prim and Proper Pastel Buttons at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Late 60s Shapes Dominate at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Tiered Glamour at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Always a Black Tie Event at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Givenchy showed variations on tuxedo dressing and something fabulous I would have to call disco tribal gothic that included un-frou-frou feather accoutrements, vampy chiffons, and sophisticated sequins.


Tuxedo Luxe at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture


Sheer Vamp at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture


Disco Tribal Revival at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection donned many hats figuratively, and quite literally. His corseted bodices were worked into a variety of inspired looks, ranging from Spanish Flamenco to ancient Greece, ending at Tahiti.


Decked Out Denim at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Bigger, Bolder, Shoulders at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Decorated Décolleté at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Crinolines Go Green at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The showing of Dior’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection was a colorful event filled with high drama gowns and ensembles taken right out of history. Pop culture darlings such as Anne Margaret and Dita Von Teese were referenced in the collection, alongside the iconic designers Charles James and Jacques Griffe, whose two-tone color blocked inspired gowns were offset sublimely by white opera gloves.


Channeling Ann Margaret circa 1967 and Dita Von Teese at Christian Dior S/S 2010 Couture


Taffeta Charm at Christian Dior S/S 2010 Couture


Debutante Proper at Dior S/S 2010 Couture

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The dreamy pale hues and graceful, fluid textures in Elie Saab’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection elicited the kind of awesome calm found only in the purity of water. Everything about the collection was exquisite—down to the beading, the embroidery, the lace work; all the things that couture dreams are made of.


Mermaid Fancy at Elie Saab S/S 2010 Couture


Visions in Taupe at Elie Saab S/S 2010 Couture

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Part I

A relaxed, expressive elegance seemed to be the prevalent theme for the 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Couture collections. The plethora of hard embellishments, frills, and dayglo brights of past seasons were nowhere in sight, and as a whole, the collections seemed to take on a softer, dreamier feel with many allusions the late 1960s. The following includes some of my favorite looks from the shows and my MAOs of the collections.

Josephus Thimister Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The militant severity of World War I Russia echoed loudly throughout Thimister’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection, which embodied a type of violence similar to that of a Delacroix painting, as bloodied tops and trousers completed the effect.


Russian Military Rules at Josephus Thimister S/S 2010 Couture


Red Runs Redrums at Josephus Thimister S/S 2010 Couture

Alexis Mabille Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Mabille definitely had Cruella de Vil and 90s body-con in mind when designing her latest couture collection for Spring 2010, as it included and abundance of two-tone color blocking and tonal, texturally contrasting trims.


Split Personalities at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture


The LBD Gets Body-Conned at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture


Films Noirs at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture

Anne Valérie Hash Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Fun and easy Vaudeville silhouettes comprised of rave worthy fabrics made up Anne Valérie Hash’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Collection.


Putting on a Show at Anne Valérie Hash S/S 2010 Couture


Raving On at Anne Valérie Hash S/S 2010 Couture

Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The lunar inspiration was interpreted quite literally at Armani Privé as moon details were represented EVERYWHERE—in and on garments as closures, buttons, necklaces, shapes and textures.


Moon Suits at Armani Privé S/S 2010 Couture


Waxing and Waning at Armani Privé S/S 2010 Couture

Valentino Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Fantasy at ease is the kind of glamorous aesthetic in Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection.

MAO-110
It’s a Soft Wrap at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture


Statement Jackets at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture


Sheer Love for Nature at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Since it’s brazenly laden with throwbacks to the late 1960s, Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection might as well have been called, Party Clothes for Modern Factory Girls.


60s Cutouts and Baubles at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture


Wearable Art at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture


I Know Why the Caged Parts Sing at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture

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