MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Part II

A relaxed, expressive elegance seemed to be the prevalent theme for the 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Couture collections. The plethora of hard embellishments, frills, and dayglo brights of past seasons were nowhere in sight, and as a whole, the collections seemed to take on a softer, dreamier feel with many allusions the late 1960s. The following is Part II of my MAOs of the collections, and includes more of my favorite looks from the shows.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection featured an abundance of 1960s shapes in soft candy pastels that translated into: lady like shorts suits, whimsical cocktail dresses, and sweeping satin gowns, all finding themselves adorned with metallic sequins embroidery.


Prim and Proper Pastel Buttons at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Late 60s Shapes Dominate at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Tiered Glamour at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture


Always a Black Tie Event at Chanel S/S 2010 Couture

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Givenchy showed variations on tuxedo dressing and something fabulous I would have to call disco tribal gothic that included un-frou-frou feather accoutrements, vampy chiffons, and sophisticated sequins.


Tuxedo Luxe at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture


Sheer Vamp at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture


Disco Tribal Revival at Givenchy S/S 2010 Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection donned many hats figuratively, and quite literally. His corseted bodices were worked into a variety of inspired looks, ranging from Spanish Flamenco to ancient Greece, ending at Tahiti.


Decked Out Denim at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Bigger, Bolder, Shoulders at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Decorated Décolleté at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture


Crinolines Go Green at Gaultier S/S 2010 Couture

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The showing of Dior’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection was a colorful event filled with high drama gowns and ensembles taken right out of history. Pop culture darlings such as Anne Margaret and Dita Von Teese were referenced in the collection, alongside the iconic designers Charles James and Jacques Griffe, whose two-tone color blocked inspired gowns were offset sublimely by white opera gloves.


Channeling Ann Margaret circa 1967 and Dita Von Teese at Christian Dior S/S 2010 Couture


Taffeta Charm at Christian Dior S/S 2010 Couture


Debutante Proper at Dior S/S 2010 Couture

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The dreamy pale hues and graceful, fluid textures in Elie Saab’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection elicited the kind of awesome calm found only in the purity of water. Everything about the collection was exquisite—down to the beading, the embroidery, the lace work; all the things that couture dreams are made of.


Mermaid Fancy at Elie Saab S/S 2010 Couture


Visions in Taupe at Elie Saab S/S 2010 Couture

M.

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MUSINGS AND OBSERVATIONS. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Part I

A relaxed, expressive elegance seemed to be the prevalent theme for the 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Couture collections. The plethora of hard embellishments, frills, and dayglo brights of past seasons were nowhere in sight, and as a whole, the collections seemed to take on a softer, dreamier feel with many allusions the late 1960s. The following includes some of my favorite looks from the shows and my MAOs of the collections.

Josephus Thimister Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The militant severity of World War I Russia echoed loudly throughout Thimister’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection, which embodied a type of violence similar to that of a Delacroix painting, as bloodied tops and trousers completed the effect.


Russian Military Rules at Josephus Thimister S/S 2010 Couture


Red Runs Redrums at Josephus Thimister S/S 2010 Couture

Alexis Mabille Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Mabille definitely had Cruella de Vil and 90s body-con in mind when designing her latest couture collection for Spring 2010, as it included and abundance of two-tone color blocking and tonal, texturally contrasting trims.


Split Personalities at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture


The LBD Gets Body-Conned at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture


Films Noirs at Alexis Mabille S/S 2010 Couture

Anne Valérie Hash Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Fun and easy Vaudeville silhouettes comprised of rave worthy fabrics made up Anne Valérie Hash’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture Collection.


Putting on a Show at Anne Valérie Hash S/S 2010 Couture


Raving On at Anne Valérie Hash S/S 2010 Couture

Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
The lunar inspiration was interpreted quite literally at Armani Privé as moon details were represented EVERYWHERE—in and on garments as closures, buttons, necklaces, shapes and textures.


Moon Suits at Armani Privé S/S 2010 Couture


Waxing and Waning at Armani Privé S/S 2010 Couture

Valentino Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Fantasy at ease is the kind of glamorous aesthetic in Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection.

MAO-110
It’s a Soft Wrap at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture


Statement Jackets at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture


Sheer Love for Nature at Valentino S/S 2010 Couture

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2010 Couture
Since it’s brazenly laden with throwbacks to the late 1960s, Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2010 Couture collection might as well have been called, Party Clothes for Modern Factory Girls.


60s Cutouts and Baubles at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture


Wearable Art at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture


I Know Why the Caged Parts Sing at Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2010 Couture

M.

MUSICAL CHAIRS. Muses for the Masses. Playlist for 27 January 2010

“Spend time every day listening to what your muse is trying to tell you.” —Saint Bartholomew

Today’s playlist entitled, Muses for the Masses, is inspired by the true and fabled femme fatales and heroines that are the very special, and timeless muses referenced in the following songs.

FEATURED PLAYLIST: Muses for the Masses. Playlist for 27 January 2010

1.   *Bette Davis Eyes – Kim Carnes

2.   *Louise – Clan of Xymox

3.   *Electra Descending – Christian Death

4.   *Rhiannon – Fleetwood Mac

5.   *Heroine – Suede

6.   *Joan of Arc – O.M.D.

7.   *Woman – John Lennon

8.   *Lorelei – Cocteau Twins

9.   *Candle in the Wind – Elton John

10. *Sparks – Faith And the Muse

*Available on iTunes

Musical Chairs’ Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Music Page
Musical Chairs’ Video Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Video Page
Musical Chairs’ Downloads: DJ Ts’ A Disco Gift to You. Playlist for 8 December 2009, DJ Gobi’s Best of 2009 Mixtape. Playlist for 28 December 2009

Enjoy!

Musical Chairs is a collection of weekly playlists created by selected artists, DJs, and musicians for LITTLE MAGAZINE. For guest DJ inquires, please send M.LittleMagazine@gmail.com a description of yourself, including a bio and musical tastes.

PROSE. From the Journals of a Muse by Jeremiah Matthews Part III


Once the Boss had laid the meeting time upon me, I glided slowly down the hall towards Poetry, unaware that my feet were moving. The lack of details had brought out the nail biter in me, especially since I knew Flo would spill whatever beans she had in her can as soon as I could corner her. There was no time — the Boss needed me to spread the word about the meeting, and unfortunately for me, I placed loyalty to her above my own sanity. The Poetry department was next to my home base of Narrative, so I dropped a few things on my desk and headed for Shel’s office.

Yes, the idea that the Muses of Poetry work under someone named Shel raises many an eyebrow through the roof — trust me when I say with certainty that Shelley has been around much longer than Percy or Mr. Silverstein. The chicken heartedness I had when I first met Shel slowly evolved into admiration — unlike other department heads, she’s always been more concerned with the Artist (or Poet, in this case) than with the audience. If she existed in the Artist world today, I imagine she would be the last person to attend a poetry reading. I don’t believe the audience enters any part of her thought process, and should it enter the minds of her employees, they have learned to keep it to themselves.

If the Boss’s office dangled dangerously off the messy side of the spectrum, Shel’s office stood securely balanced on the other end. Like the Boss, Shel could find any piece of paper she needed at any given time, but since everything was flawlessly organized (for reasons I cannot understand, only post-its of a certain color were permitted in certain drawers), the cleanliness was somehow less impressive to me. What did impress me was that although the office’s deco rarely changed, something about the room always seemed to match her outfit.

With nothing but dustless space neighboring it, centered perfectly under Shel’s glass topped desk was one of Emily Dickinson’s:

“Much Madness is divinest Sense—
To a discerning Eye—
Much Sense—the starkest madness—
‘Tis the Majority
In this, as All, prevails—
Assent, and you are sane—
Demur—you’re straightway dangerous—
And handled with a Chain—”

That was Shel.

She sat at the desk going through her typically tall stack of papers with a red-feathered quill. Without a “hello” or artificial “how are you,” she instead served a “what d’you need?” at me, still absorbed in her work. When I returned the vigorous serve with “The Boss needs to have a company meeting,” she finally glanced up, the red quill still moving before slowly coming to a stop.

She looked at every part on my face but somehow refused to let our eyes meet. To my chin I think, she finally asked, “They’re really doing it, aren’t they?” without really asking. Since apparently we had checked our question marks at the door, I tried to figure out how to probe for more.

But before my craftiness could kick in, she lobbed a single phrase directly above my head. It arced over me and lingered there for a few seconds before it hit: “They’re down-musing.”

Some of us were on our way out.

Jeremiah Matthews’ Past Works:
From the Journals of a Muse Part II
From the Journals of a Muse Part I

MUSICAL CHAIRS. M.’s King of Kings Mix. Playlist for 18 January 2010

Today’s playlist is dedicated to the most influential civil rights leader of our time, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., a beautiful man whose legacy represents peaceful achievement of social and political justice and equality. Tragically, when King was assassinated in 1968, the civil rights moment suffered it’s most severe loss, never quite regaining its past momentum. I made this playlist in appreciation of King, to thank him for his role in creating a world that is a little more aware than the world of our parents and grandparents, and with the hope that someday, his dream to live “free at last”, will come to fruition.


Martin Luther King’s “I Have a Dream” Speech
March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom

August 28, 1963, Lincoln Memorial

FEATURED PLAYLIST: M.’s King of Kings Mix. Playlist for 18 January 2010

1.   *Happy Birthday – Stevie Wonder

2.   *Revolution – The Beatles

3.   *People are People – Depeche Mode

4.   *Hard Rain’s A-Gonna Fall – Roxy Music

5.   *When Will We Be Paid – The Staple Singers

6.   *Strange Fruit – Billie Holiday

7.   *We Shall Overcome – Pete Seeger

8.   *Oh Freedom – Joan Baez

9.   *Imagine – John Lennon

10. *Amazing Grace – Mahalia Jackson

*Available on iTunes

Musical Chairs’ Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Music Page
Musical Chairs’ Video Playlist Library:
LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Video Page

Musical Chairs’ Downloads: DJ Ts’ A Disco Gift to You. Playlist for 8 December 2009, DJ Gobi’s Best of 2009 Mixtape. Playlist for 28 December 2009

Enjoy!

Musical Chairs is a collection of weekly playlists created by selected artists, DJs, and musicians for LITTLE MAGAZINE. For guest DJ inquires, please send M.LittleMagazine@gmail.com a description of yourself, including a bio and musical tastes.

MODUS OPERANDI. Through the Looking-Glass

Now, here, you see, it takes all the running you can do, to keep in the same place. If you want to get somewhere else, you must run at least twice at fast as that!
The Red Queen, Through The Looking-Glass by Louis Carrol

This week’s modus operandi is Alice from Louis Carroll’s, Through the Looking-Glass, the sequel to his 1865 novel, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. I’ve always been fascinated with Carroll’s purported child muse, Alice Liddell, of whom the Wonderland tales are supposedly named after, and the following is what I would put on if I were Alice for a day.


Vera Wang Seamed Dress


Agent Provocateur Melody Stockings


Lanvin Patent Leather Ballerina Flats


Mercedes Headband in Silver by Eugenia Kim


My Alice would wear Lolita Lempicka’s Forbidden Flower, a vivid yet soft floral fragrance with notes of strawberry leaf (sweet), violet (powdery), almond musk (mysterious), and absinth stem (just a little psychedelic).

And of course, one must have a looking glass if one is to go through it…

Empire Giltwood Mirror Circa 1820

Trailer for Alice in Wonderland directed by Tim Burton, starring Johnny Depp, Helena Bonham Carter, Crispin Glover, and Anne Hathaway
Release date March 5, 2010

My personal favorite interpretation of Alice in Wonderland – Jan Švankmajer’s Alice 1988

Disney’s 1951 Classic

MUSICAL CHAIRS. T. Joseph Enos’ Music To Moog To Mix. Playlist for 12 January 2010

Today’s MUSICAL CHAIR is T. Joseph Enos, artist and bass player for the indie blues-rock band, Chow Nasty. He describes his playlist entitled, “Music To Moog To”, as:

This is a collection of Moog music that I have been enjoying greatly. If nerd is the new chic, then this is the right soundtrack as it’s full of Soul and Funk, yet has a major dose of intellectual musical theory theatrics. Only one song, Born to be Wild by The Moog Cookbook, is not from the late 1960s/early 1970s. It was in 1995 when I saw the Moog Cookbook band play to promote their their debut, self-titled album on MTV News with Kurt Loder. I was 14. And I was totally impressed by their performance, since their sound was so uniquely in line with their predecessors. This is how I got into the Moog. Enjoy!!


Original Artwork by T. Joseph Enos

FEATURED PLAYLIST: T. Joseph Enos’ Music to Moog to Mix. Playlist for 12 January 2010

1.     Give It Up Or Turn It Loose – Dick Hyman

2.   *The Minotaur – Dick Hyman

3.   *Folsom Prison Blues – Gil Trythall

4.     Showcase 1 – Edd Kalehoff

5.   *Bandito the Bongo Artist – Raymond Scott

6.   *Gossipo Perpetuo – Jean Jacques Perrey

7.   *Born to be Wild – The Moog Cookbook

8.   *Nocturne – Les Baxter

9.   *Hey, Hey – Gershon Kingsley

10. *Another Part of Time – Beaver & Krause

*Available on iTunes

T. Joseph Enos’ Website(s): www.TJosephEnos.com, www.ChowNasty.com

Musical Chairs’ Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Music Page
Musical Chairs’ Video Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Video Page

Musical Chairs’ Downloads: DJ Ts’ A Disco Gift to You. Playlist for 8 December 2009, DJ Gobi’s Best of 2009 Mixtape. Playlist for 28 December 2009

Enjoy!

Musical Chairs is a collection of weekly playlists created by selected artists, DJs, and musicians for LITTLE MAGAZINE. For guest DJ inquires, please send M.LittleMagazine@gmail.com a description of yourself, including a bio and musical tastes.