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Kombucha tea has been a popular probiotic drink on the market for over twenty years now, and brands like Synergy Kombucha are sold at Whole Foods for $3.99 per 16 oz. bottle. However, I prefer to brew my own Kombucha tea at home, and use the following basic recipe, a combination of ingredients and techniques I’ve adjusted to my liking over the past few years.

BASIC KOMBUCHA TEA RECIPE
There are a few options in terms of obtaining a Kombucha culture. You don’t necessarily have to buy a culture to start with, although the fermentation process is faster when your tea is brewed from a full sized culture, and oftentimes these are available for FREE on Craigslist. You can purchase full sized cultures for about $20 online. LocalHarvest.org has free shipping and sells them for $16.95. You can also grow your own culture by adding a 16 oz. bottle of mass produced unpasteurized and unflavored Kombucha tea to your own tea at Step 3. Youtube has a great video with additional information on this method.

1 Kombucha Culture

6-7 Tea Bags of Black Tea

20 Cups Water

1 Large Glass Jar (1½-2 Gallon Capacity)

¾ Cup Granulated Sugar

½ Cup Brown Sugar

3-6 Unbleached Coffee filters

Wooden Spoon

Rubber Band

Paper Towels or Cheesecloth

Sealable Glass Bottles for Storage

*Coffee Maker

BREWING INSTRUCTIONS
*There is some debate whether or not using metal cookware/containers/utensils in the brewing process of the tea will compromise the integrity of the Kombucha culture. I find it is just far more efficient to use a standard coffee maker to brew the tea, thus eliminating the concern. If you don’t have a coffee maker, boil the water in a glass or ceramic pot.

1. Use 5-7 tea bags in the brewing chamber (where the coffee filter normally goes), and pour through 10-12 cups of water twice to brew 2 pots of tea.

2. Pour the tea into the large glass jar and add the sugar. Stir with the wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved.

3. Once the tea has cooled, place the Kombucha culture in/on top of the tea (normal-may sink or float). Cover with a couple layers of the paper towel and secure it with a rubber band.

4. Leave the tea in a undisturbed area for 2-3 weeks to ferment.

5. After the fermentation period, strain the tea using unbleached coffee filters into sealable glass bottles.

HOW TO SERVE
To receive its optimal benefits, Kombucha is best served cold, 4 oz. every morning on an empty stomach. I feel an instant energy boost when I drink it, and notice an overall improvement in my complexion as well.

STORAGE
The bottled and filtered Kombucha tea can be stored in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks.

Store the Kombucha cultures in glass jars with a bit of tea, which will keep it growing, or refrigerate them on a glass plate covered with a layer of wax paper underneath plastic wrap or a plastic bag.

The collections shown during Paris Fashion Week bustled with nostalgia. Granted, fashion always looks to the past for inspiration; however most of these instances are soon forgotten, replaced by the buzzing current of media driven trends. Fortunately, the Paris Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear collections didn’t take that route. Instead, a return to grace seemed to be the ubiquitous theme on designers’ minds as as the shows were teeming with Medieval, Victorian, and 1960s elegance.

The following include more of my favorite looks and trends from the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear shows during Paris Fashion Week:

THE OVERCOAT. Ponchos, ulsters, capes, you name it; outerwear was officially the focal point of the Autumn/Winter Paris Ready-to-Wear collections.

Caped Crusaders at Hussein Chalayan and Yves Saint Laurent A/W 2010-2011 RTW

BUTTERY LEATHER. These haute hides are the new ultimate luxury.

Black Leather Like Butter at Celine and Hermès A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Scoring Brownie Points at Valentino and Costume National A/W 2010-2011 RTW

OVERSIZED. Bigger is better in the world of caricatured fashion.

Supersized at John Galliano and Kenzo A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Ginormus Jackets at Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Are You Yeti? Big Fur at Chanel A/W 2010-2011 RTW

SATIN. No longer confined to evenings, satin makes its way to day

Simply Satin at Nina Ricci and Emanuel Ungaro A/W 2010-2011 RTW

TRAINS. Regal, ceremonial, and perfectly pretentious: Why not always travel by train? 

Satin Trained at Maison Martin Margiela and Stella McCartney A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Classically Trained at Alexander McQueen A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Well Trained at Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2010-2011 RTW

FAVORITES

Great holy farthingale! Nothing beats this plethora of pleats.

The Future Looks to the Past at Viktor & Rolf A/W 2010-2011 RTW

Alexander McQueen’s last collection was absolutely stunning. Like a High Renaissance painting, the ensembles had a steadfast beauty ethereal in all its rich glory.

The Past is Not Forgotten at Alexander McQueen A/W 2010-2011 RTW

M.

Paris Fashion Week came and went quicker than one can say adieu. The collections shared a certain sense of ease and humor; a welcomed departure from the sexually charged seriousness of Milan Fashion Week. Modern fabrications gave life to Medieval, Victorian, and 1990s silhouettes and color ways, and all of it was noted in the details—exactly what the French are so brilliant at doing. I like to think of it as: French wit.

The following are some of my favorite looks and trends from the Paris  Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear collections.

HOODS. The artistic hood is so damn good.

Not Your Average Hoods at Rick Owens and Gaultier Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

EMBELLISHED SEAMS. Metallic seams are the simplest bling.

Shiny Seams at Elie Saab and Karl Lagerfeld Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

CROPPED. Sweaters and jackets soar to new heights as they shrink in size.

Cream of the Crop at Vivienne Westwood and Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

1990s STYLE STRIPED KNITS. Seriously, striped sweaters are the grungiest fun.

There’s Waldo at Sonia Rykiel and Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

Bright Stripes at Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

M.

Italians do it better, so they say. Better may not be quite the right descriptive when it comes to fashion; however sexier and definitely more fun come to mind when comparing their American and English counterparts.

As for the Milan Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 collections, color schemes consisting of vibrant reds and deep forest greens seemed to jump right out of Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s Amélie. Nuances such as a sweater clad midriff or a carefully slashed breast revealed tiny flashes of skin, while Scandinavian motifs and patchwork worked their way in. Embellished hips, fringe, corsetry, and sans pants—enduring trends from past seasons—were well represented within reason. Now I must end this rhyme with a stitch in time.

The following include some of my favorite looks and trends from the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 Ready-to-Wear shows during Milan Fashion Week:

RED. Standing for sex, power, love, and order: red commands attention wherever it goes.

Taken Aback in Red and Black at Dsquared² and Dolce & Gabbana Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

Redcoats at Armani and Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

DARK GREEN. Luscious dark green is edgy AND pristine.

Exquisitely Green, Coats for Evening at at Alberta Ferretti and Armani Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

Mixed Greens at Etro and Missoni Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

SCANDINAVIAN MOTIFS. Snowflakes, blossoms, and reindeer comprise; a confectionary aesthetic; the Scandinavian guise. 

Scandinavian Warming Trends at D&G and Missoni Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

PEEK-A-BOO. Just a smidgen of skin will do.

Sneak Peeks at Gucci and Prada Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

PATCHWORK. Part folk, part arts and crafts; patchwork detailing tells the future, present and past.

Piecing it Together at Versace and Just Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

EMBELLISHED HIPS. Hips don’t lie, they multiply; by way of external pockets and statement peplums.

Hip-notized at Bottega Veneta and Marni Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

FRINGE. It’s acceptable to binge, on the lighter sides of fringe. 

Ultra-Femme Fringe at Versace and Iceberg Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

CORSETRY. Boned, laced, and bustiered, the corset is fiercely displayed.

Staying Put at Moschino and Just Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

SANS PANTS. Since Lady Gaga started running around in bodysuits, it seems nobody wants to wear pants anymore. Just dance sans pants.

Pitchy Knickers at Dsquared² and Iceberg Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

Dolce and Gabbana’s Pantsless Procession – Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 RTW

M.

Once Shel’s words had time to fall upon my head and soak into my brain, the hunt for Flo was on. I assumed she would be at her desk preparing for this all-important meeting, but her empty chair readjusted my compass. She wasn’t making rounds with new Assignments or throwing her flirt at the new intern (but I did notice that dimple and a half on his face that she’d be talking about for weeks).

I found her down at the Punching Bag, our piano bar and mess hall that sat one floor above ours. I admit sometimes we toot away on those Muse horns of ours, but I must toot about the Punching Bag—building a soundproof room in the back of the bar in which a punching bag dangled from the ceiling was truly, well, inspired. The Bag was open to all, regardless of motivation. Yes, even Muses need to punch and scream and kick…as long as our frustrations remain silent.

Flo was sitting at the piano, swaying as Davis played and sang “Any Place I Hang My Hat is Home.” The Bag was empty aside from the two of them and Rose, who was reading behind the bar. As I slid onto the second piano stool, Flo shifted a little and looked over at the wall in the opposite direction. “She told me there was nothing to prep,” she sighed, sensing my curiosity and confusion as to why she was there. I glanced at Davis with the hope of a comforting second or two, but all he could do was sing:

“There’s a voice in the lonesome wind that keeps whispering ‘roam.’ I’m goin’ where the welcome mat is, no matter where that is.”

I stared at the back of Flo’s head and muttered, “So if I asked you what was going on, would you tell me, or do I need to fill that tray with drinks first?” She glanced at me sideways and handed me the tray that was sitting on the piano top. I went to the bar where Rose had already put her book down and started to fix three Honey Mints, a Muse favorite of peppermint tea and honey. A mug filled with half of each tickled us beyond the lightest shade of pink.

“Give that third to Davis, would ya, hon,” Rose asked me, putting the mugs onto the tray.  “He’s been on this Garland kick for awhile, and his throat’s gotta be close to raw by now.” I smiled at her and nodded as I headed back towards the piano. “He’s, he’s gonna sing ‘em all, and we’ll stay all night,” Rose’s voice winked at me as I walked away.  Either she was complaining or looking forward to it; probably both, knowing her.

“I pick up too when the spirit moves me,” sang Davis as I got back to piano. I put the mugs on their coasters and sat down.  Flo took two sips as she sang the next line along with Davis, “Sweetin’ water, cherry wine. Thank you kindly suits me fine,” and exhaled slowly, nodding her head for no apparent reason. “Okay, I don’t know too much, but it seems like that problem in the Artist world that you all’ve been trying to ignore is getting bigger.”

The bulb that had been swinging in my mind all day started to flicker.  I’d seen this coming for awhile, but yes I had aimed for the “ignore it and it will go away” philosophy that, over the years, I had encouraged so many to avoid.

As my career in this Business slowly began to blossom, the Boss would call me to her office to go over upcoming Assignments. That evolved into my staying late and sitting with her on the office floor, designing and outlining potential Assignments for the Narrative Department. As Taffy purred on the Boss’s lap and Fanny on mine, we’d talk about reorganizing the Motif Index or combining chapters of the Tale Type Index to create a new type, that sort of thing. Decisions in this Business weren’t made in meetings, at least not for Narrative; they were made on the floor of that office with two cats purring, stacks of papers threatening to fall over, and empty bottles of Yoo Hoo and Dr. Pepper swirling between us.

If that hamburger phone of hers ever rang, the Boss would just ignore it…if she even heard it at all. Flo would pop in every now and then to yank us out of a dry brainstorm, usually with a one-liner of perfection that was far too obvious for us to see. One night, I was on the couch with Fanny sitting above my shoulder and my own growing stack of papers. Flo came in and grabbed the burger off the Boss’s desk, all but throwing it to her on the floor where she was sitting.

“It’s upstairs,” Flo said, one eye in my direction. Something both in her voice and eye told me to stand up leisurely and pretend to fetch something that I absolutely could not be without at that moment. It was pure instinct at the time, and I really didn’t give it a second or third thought. I had little, if anything, to do with “Upstairs,” and that two-way street remained motionless on both sides. As the number of late phone calls to the Boss increased as our late night sessions become fewer, I stuck blazingly to slaying the inevitable dragon by ignoring it.

Until now.

“Bottom line, if you want it,” Flo said, returning to the piano with another tray of Honey Mints, “the demand in the Artist world has been pulling a downwards gopher for too long. If the days of the Muse are numbered, they’re numbered in single digits.”

There it was. Unfortunate and Unamusing Truth. Just how un-Musing it was going to be, neither of us knew.

“Any place I hang my hat…”

I ran out before Davis could finish.

Jeremiah Matthews’ Past Works:
From the Journals of a Muse Part III
From the Journals of a Muse Part II
From the Journals of a Muse Part I

Although New York Fashion Week’s Fall Ready-to-Wear 2010 collections tended to be somewhat calculated, there were aspects I found to be rather exceptional.  The following include more trends from the New York Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear shows and my favorite looks—on the darker side naturally, taking cues from medieval times.

SHEER ALL THE WAY. Like it or not, sheer all the way is here to stay; at least for a season or two.

Enmeshed at Catherine Malandrino and Cushnie et Ochs Fall 2010 RTW

On Detail at Yigal Azrouël and Jen Kao Fall 2010 RTW

EXAGGERATED CURVES. Like a coat of armor, contrasting fabrics and boning create dramatic structure.

Burgeoning Hips at Alexandre Herchcovitch and Donna Karan Fall 2010 RTW

FRINGE. Fringe gets refreshed in edgy colors and shapes.

Fresh Fringe at Paris 68 and Cynthia Rowley Fall 2010 RTW

PEEK-A-BOO. Glimpses of skin is a playful DO.

Peeking Through at Jeremy Scott and Proenza Schouler Fall 2010 RTW

VELVET. Rich, supple and romantic; velvet is a lost love returned for fall.

Snow White and Rose Red at Anna Sui and Alexander Wang Fall 2010 RTW

Velvet Touches at Nanette Lepore and Zac Posen Fall 2010 RTW

1930s STYLE EVENING GOWNS. Long, fluid lines in draping fabrics denote classic evening glamour.

Liquid Gold at Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra Fall 2010 RTW

And by far the most interesting piece of all the NYFW fall 2010 collections.

Hair Dressing at threeASFOUR Fall 2010 RTW

So cool was Betsey Johnson’s Tribute to Alexander McQueen.

Betsey Johnson Fall 2010 RTW

M.

Although I love New York Fashion Week, I don’t love New York weather in the dead of winter, which is why this season I’m very happy to be a remote observer. The greatness of the New York ready-to-wear shows is that these designers more or less create a guide for consumers in terms of accessible, everyday fashion that is purchasable in stores and online. It’s what the H&Ms, the Forever 21s, and the Urban Outfitters will be using for inspiration over the next few months. And it all starts in New York.

Speaking of which, it’s the last fashion week in Bryant Park, since IMG decided to move the event to Lincoln Center starting next season, a change I’m not super fond of at the moment. Bryant Park is such a charming and romantic locale with its vintage cafe tables and stone walkways and is in such close proximity to the New York Public Library, one of my favorite places in the city, which is where I go to retreat from all the fashion week madness. It will be interesting to see how it all pans outs logistically and socially next season.

I digress.

As for the shows, they generally still had a very serious feel to them. Edgy, unfrivolous investment silhouettes seemed to be key selling points along with safe use of color; black is the new gray, gray is the new khaki, and varying shades of tan and is the new monochromatic way. Patterns were integrated somewhat desperately into the collections, and likewise, the urge to color block everything apparently was a difficult temptation for designers to resist. On top of it all were layers of vintage inspired furs to spell out F-A-L-L in case anyone had forgotten due to all the shorts sightings. In all, the collections were beautiful—but extremely safe executions of classic fall/winter dressing.

Many variations of the following trends were seen at the Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear shows during New York Fashion Week:

COLOR BLOCKING. There’s absolutely no stopping color blocking this Fall/Winter.

Easy Color Blocking at Narcisco Rodriguez and BCBG Fall 2010 RTW

Sporty Color Blocking at Cynthia Rowley and Y-3 Fall 2010 RTW

Ladylike Color Blocking at Chado Ralph Rucci and Zac Posen Fall 2010 RTW

JUMPERS. It’s official. The jumpsuits of seasons past have metamorphosed into—the jumper.

Jumpers Neck to Neck at Vena Cava and Erin Wasson x RVCA Fall 2010 RTW

Suspended at 3.1 Philip Lim and Betsey Johnson Fall 2010 RTW

SHORTS. Shorts are sophisticated and seasonless when paired with smart legwear and footwear.

Shorts Stories at Nicole Miller and Jill Stuart Fall 2010 RTW

GRAY SPORTSWEAR. Sportswear goes gray all the way come fall.

Gray Days at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 RTW

TAN. Monochromatic shades of tan are the new autumnal hues for 2010.

Monochromatic Tans at Mulberry and  Zac Posen Fall 2010 RTW

LAYERED PRINTS. Nouveau grunge consists of a mishmash of layered prints.

Mixed and Layered Prints at Anna Sui and Boy by Band of Outsiders Fall 2010 RTW

FUR COLLARS. Extra large fur collars are fit for snow queens, not snow bunnies.

Fur Trimmings at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler Fall 2010 RTW

M.

Today’s playlist entitled, Lovely Lady Punks, is a tribute to the early ladies of punk rock, and includes a selection of songs with themes characteristic of the punk rock movement: mischief, angst, sexism, ostracism, and assimilation.

FEATURED PLAYLIST: Lovely Lady Punks. Playlist for 17 Feb. 2010

1.   *Typical Girls – The Slits

2.   *X Offender – Blondie

3.   *Helter Skelter – Siouxsie & The Banshees

4.   *48 Crash – Suzi Quatro

5.     New York New York – Nina Hagen

6.   *Rebel Girl – Bikini Kill

7.   *Wax – 45 Grave

8.   *We’re Desperate – X

9.   *Babelogue – Patti Smith

10. *Identity – X-Ray Spex

*Available on iTunes

Musical Chairs’ Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Music Page
Musical Chairs’ Video Playlist Library: LITTLE MAGAZINE’s Video Page
Musical Chairs’ Downloads: DJ Ts’ A Disco Gift to You. Playlist for 8 December 2009, DJ Gobi’s Best of 2009 Mixtape. Playlist for 28 December 2009

Enjoy!

Musical Chairs is a collection of weekly playlists created by selected artists, DJs, and musicians for LITTLE MAGAZINE. For guest DJ inquires, please send M.LittleMagazine@gmail.com a description of yourself, including a bio and musical tastes.

This Modus Operandi post is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen, who tragically took his own life yesterday. The designer, discovered by his close friend, the late iconic stylist, Isabella Blow, and better known professionally as Alexander McQueen, has always been one of the most fascinating talents in fashion. I still remember the French press referring to McQueen as the “enfant terrible” after being named head designer of Givenchy Haute Couture back in 1996, when I was still a teen.

Quintessentially gothic, what I admire most about McQueen is his ability to channel his dark genius into absolutely beautiful and stunning art that is neither contrived nor cliche. However sadly, it was this macabre energy that consumed him in the end. The following are a few of my favorite Alexander McQueen designs of all time, accompanied by some of his more candid quotes.

“I kind of like it the way it is right now…I believe in that one-on-one sell. I don’t really believe in flooding the market with loads of goods that don’t mean much, and (you) lose your identity.”

Alexander McQueen Fall 2009 RTW

“The pink sheep of the family.” (on himself)

Alexander McQueen Spring 2009 RTW

“If you ask any lady they want to be taller, they want to be slimmer, you know, and they want a waist. I’m not here to make people look like a sack of potatoes.”

Alexander McQueen Shoes Spring 2010 RTW

“Fashion is sacrificial. I’ll give my body over to the general public whether they want it or not! I don’t care!” (When asked about his Samsonite Black Label collaboration)

Samsonite Black Label “Hero” by Alexander McQueen 2007

“British fashion is self confident and fearless. It refuses to bow to commerce, thus generating a constant flow of new ideas whilst drawing in British heritage.”

Alexander McQueen Fall 2006 RTW

Alexander McQueen for Givenchy Couture Spring/Summer 2000

In 2008, Elle magazine asked McQueen, “If you could come back as a dress, which one would it be?” His reply, “My kimono dress from fall ’03.”

Alexander McQueen’s Kimono Dress Fall 2003 RTW

My favorite Alexander McQueen piece, which I was fortunate enough to see at FIT’s Gothic Dark Glamour Exhibition, is absolutely mind-blowing in person.

Alexander McQueen Voss Collection Spring 2001 RTW

“Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.” —Dr. Seuss

Agreed. Thank you Alexander McQueen for having existed, for your wondrous creative genius, and for your magnificent contribution to fashion. You are forever an inspiration. May you rest in peace.

Net-a-Porter’s Tribute to Alexander McQueen

Related LITTLE MAGAZINE posts:
MODUS OPERANDI. Isabella Blow